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演说者：Pierre Thiam

演说题目：神奇的谷物，协助非洲摆脱饥饿!

忘掉藜麦吧。来见见非洲全小米，它是种古老的「奇迹谷物」，生于塞内加尔，具多样性，很营养，且无麸质。在这场热情的演说中，主厨Pierre分享了他对于这种能吃苦耐劳的作物有多着迷，并解释为什么他相信，以工业规模来耕种它，就能够转变非洲的社会。https://v.qq.com/txp/iframe/player.html?vid=x05439dvlmo&width=500&height=375&auto=0

I was born and raised in Dakar, Senegal, and through a combination of accidents and cosmic justice, became a chef in the US.When I first arrived in New York, I began working in these restaurants -- different types of restaurants -- from French bistro to Italian, global ethnic to modern American. At the time, New York was already well-established as a food capital of the world. However ... with the exception of a few West African and Ethiopian mom-and-pop eateries, there was no such thing as African cuisine in the entire city.

我在塞内加尔的达卡出生和长大， 经过了许多意外与宇宙正义的结合， 我在美国成了一名主厨。当我初次抵达纽约时， 我开始在一些餐厅工作，各种不同的餐厅， 从法国小酒馆到义大利餐馆， 从全球民族餐厅到现代美式餐厅。 那时， 纽约已经成为了世界的食物首都。 然而， 除了少数西非和衣索比亚的小型饭馆之外， 在整个城市中并没有所谓的非洲菜。

Early in my life, I was influenced by Senegal's first president, Léopold Sédar Senghor, nicknamed, "the poet president," who talked about a new humanism, a universal civilization, in which all cultures would come together around a communal table as equals, each bringing its own beautiful contribution to share. He called it "the rendezvous of giving and receiving." That concept resonated with me, and it has guided my career path.

在我人生的前期， 我受到塞内加尔第一任总统 利奥波德·塞达尔·桑戈尔的影响， 他的绰号叫「诗人总统」， 他谈到新人文主义， 全体的文明， 在这种文明中，所有文化能平等地围绕着一张共有的桌子而坐， 每个文化带着它自己的美丽贡献来分享。 他称之为「施与受的幽会」。 那概念让我产生了共鸣， 它一直引导着我职涯的道路。

After years of working in restaurants, I yearned for my work to have a deeper impact that would go beyond the last meal I had served. I wanted to give back, both to New York -- the city that allowed me the opportunity to follow my calling -- but also to my origins and ancestors in Senegal. I wanted to contribute to that universal civilization Senghor had described. But I didn't know how to make a measurable impact as a cook and writer.

在餐厅工作多年之后， 我很渴望能做具有更深刻的影响力的工作， 影响力能超过我端上的上一道菜。 我想要回馈，回馈给纽约， 提供我机会让我能追随使命的城市， 也回馈给我在塞内加尔的根源及祖先。 我想要对桑戈尔所描述的全体文明 做出贡献。 但我不知道身为厨师及作家， 要如何做出重大影响。

While I was writing my first cookbook, I often traveled to different regions of Senegal for research. During one of those trips, in the remote, southeast region of Kédougou I rediscovered an ancient grain called fonio that had all but disappeared from the urban Senegalese diet. It turns out that fonio had been cultivated for more than five thousand years and is probably the oldest cultivated cereal in Africa. Once a popular grain on much of the continent, fonio was grown all the way to ancient Egypt, where archaeologists found grains inside pyramids' burial grounds. Today it is mostly cultivated in the western part of the Sahel region, from Senegal to Mali, Burkina Faso, Togo, Nigeria. The Sahel region is that semiarid area south of the Sahara desert that extends from the Atlantic in the west to the Red Sea in the east. I became more interested in this grain that was deemed worth taking to the afterlife by early Egyptians.

当我正在撰写我的第一本食谱时， 我常旅行到塞内加尔的不同地区去做研究。 在那些旅程当中，有一次， 是前往凯杜古东南方的偏远地区， 我重新发现了一种古早谷物，叫做非洲全小米， 它什么都有，但却从都市的塞内加尔饮食中消失了。 结果，全非洲小米已经被耕作了 超过五千年， 可能是非洲最古老的农耕谷类植物。 它曾经是这块大陆上大部份地方的热门谷物， 被一路 种植 到古埃及，考古学家在古埃及的金字塔中发现有谷物被埋在地下。现今，它大多被种植在萨赫尔地区的西部， 从塞内加尔到马利， 布吉纳法索， 多哥，奈及利亚。 萨赫尔地区是半干旱的区域，在撒哈拉沙漠南边， 从西边的太西洋延伸到东边的红海。 我对这种谷物变得更感兴趣了， 古埃及人认为它是值得带到来世的。

As I continued my research, I found out that fonio was actually -- wherever it was cultivated -- there was always some myth, or some superstition connected to it. The Dogon, another great culture in Mali, called it "po," or, "the seed of the universe." In that ancient culture's mythology, the entire universe sprouted from a seed of fonio.

随着我继续进行研究， 我发现非洲全小米其实 ──不论它被种在哪里── 总是与某种神话或是迷信有所连结。 多贡， 马利的另一个伟大文化， 称它为「po」， 意思是「宇宙的种子」。 在古文化的神话中， 整个宇宙是从一颗非洲全小米种子萌生出来的。

Aside from its purported mystical properties, fonio is a miracle grain in many aspects. It is nutritious, particularly rich in methionine and cysteine, two amino acids that are deficient in most other major grains: barley, rice or wheat to name a few. In addition, fonio cultivation is great for the environment. It tolerates poor soil and needs very little water, surviving where nothing else will grow.

除了传说神秘特性之外，非洲全小米在许多层面上也是种奇迹 谷物 。它很有营养，特别富含甲硫胺酸与半胱胺酸，大部份的主要谷物都缺少这两种胺基酸：大麦，米，小麦是其中几个例子。此外，耕种非洲全小米对环境有益。它能容忍贫脊土壤，需要的水也非常少，能在没有其他植物能存活的地方生存。

As a chef, what first struck me was its delicate taste and its versatility. Similar to couscous, fonio has a delicious, nutty and earthy flavor. It can be turned into salad, served as noodles, used in baking or simply as a substitute for any other grains in your favorite recipes. I am happy to share some of my fonio sushi and sweet potato sushi with some of you right now.And okra.In Kédougou it is also nicknamed "ñamu buur," which means "food for royalty," and it's served for guests of honor.

身为一名主厨， 首先引起我注意的是它的细致口味以及多变性。 和非洲古斯米类似， 非洲全小米的味道很可口，有坚果味及土味。 它可以用来做沙拉， 做面条， 用来烘焙， 或是很单纯地用来取代你最爱的食谱中的其他谷物。 我很高兴现在能与各位分享我的一些非洲全小米寿司 以及甘薯寿司。还有秋葵。在凯杜古， 它还有个昵称叫「ñamubuur」， 意思是「皇室食物」， 它是贵宾所准备的。

Located at the border with Guinea and Mali, Kédougou first strikes visitors with its stunning vistas and views of the Fouta Djallon Mountains. Sadly, it is also one of the poorest regions of Senegal. Because of desertification and lack of job prospects, much of Kédougou's young population has left. They chose the deadly path of migration in search of "better" opportunities. Often, they risk their lives trying to reach Europe. Some leave by crossing the Sahara desert. Others end up on inadequate wooden canoes in desperate attempts to reach Spain. According to a recent "Guardian" article, by 2020 more that 60 million people from sub-Saharan Africa are expected to migrate due to desertification. This is the biggest global wave of migration since the Second World War, and it's only set to grow. So far this year, more that 2,100 migrants have lost their lives on their way to Europe. This is the reality of Kédougou and of much of the Sahel today. Scary future, scarce food and no opportunities to change their situation.

凯杜古位在几内亚和马利的边界， 它给访客的第一印象是绝色美景 以及富塔贾隆山脉的景观。 令人难过的是，它也是塞内加尔最贫穷的地区之一。 因为沙漠化以及缺乏工作远景， 凯杜古大部份的人口都离开了。 他们选择迁涉这条死亡之路， 为了寻求「更好」的机会。 通常， 他们冒着生命危险试图前往欧洲。 有些人是穿越撒哈拉沙漠离开， 其他人则是靠着很不适合的独木舟， 孤注一掷试图前往西班牙。 根据近期「卫报」的一篇文章， 到2020年，撒哈拉以南的非洲预期会有六千万人 因为沙漠化而迁涉。 这是第二次世界大战之后最大一波的全球迁徙， 且它只会增不会减。 今年目前， 超过2,100名转事者 在前往欧洲的路上丧命。 这就是凯杜古的现实，且萨赫尔现今大多也是如此。 令人害怕的未来， 稀少的食物， 且没有机会能改变他们的状况。

If life in your village weren't so precarious, if there was a way to having enough food to get by, or having a paying job -- if you and your sisters didn't have to spend 30 percent of their waking hours fetching water, if conditions were just a little more hospitable ... could the solution be right here in our soil? Could bringing fonio to the rest of the world be the answer?

如果你村子中的生活是这么不安稳， 如果有方法可以得到足够生存下去的食物， 或是找到一份有薪的工作── 如果你和你的姐妹 不需要把30％醒着的时间 花在取水上， 如果条件只要能稍微好一点点...... 有没有可能解决方案就在我们的土壤中？ 有没有可能把非洲全小米带给全世界， 就是我们在找的答案？

Ancient grains are getting more popular, and sales of gluten-free items are growing in the US -- 16.4 percent since 2013, making it a 23.3-billion-dollar industry. How could fonio partake in this market share?

古老的 谷物 越来越热门，且无麸质的东西在美国越卖越好── 2013年销售就成长了16.4％， 让它成为233亿美元的产业。 非洲全小米要如何参与这个市场？

There are many challenges in turning fonio into food. Traditional processing is laborious and time-consuming, especially when compared to other grains. Well, thankfully, technology has evolved. And there are now machines that can process fonio in a more efficient way. And as a matter of fact, a few years ago, Sanoussi Diakité, a Senegalese engineer, won a Rolex prize for his invention of the first mechanized fonio processor. Today, such machines are making life much easier for producers around the whole Sahel region.

要把非洲全小米转为食物，有许多挑战。 传统加工要耗很多人力和时间， 相较于其他谷物更是劣势。 谢天谢地，科技进化了。 现在有机器 可以用更有效率的方式来做非洲全小米加工。 事实上， 几年前， 山诺西迪亚基泰， 一位塞内加尔的工程师， 赢得了劳力士奖， 得奖作品是他发明的第一台机械化非洲全小米加工机。 现今，这类机器让整个塞内加尔地区的生产者 能轻松许多。

Another challenge is the colonial mentality that what comes from the west is best. This tendency to look down on our own products and to see crops like fonio as simply "country peoples' food," therefore substandard, explains why even though we don't produce wheat in Senegal traditionally, it is far easier to find baguettes or croissants in the streets of Dakar than it is to find any fonio products. This same mindset popularized the overprocessed, leftover rice debris known as "broken rice," which was imported to Senegal from Indochina and introduced by the colonial French. Soon, broken rice became a key ingredient in our national dish, thiéboudienne, replacing our own traditional, more nutritious African rice, Oryza glaberrima. Ironically, the same African rice despised at home was hailed abroad. Indeed, during the Atlantic slave trade, this rice became a major crop in the Americas ... particularly in the Carolinas where it was nicknamed, "Carolina gold."

另一个挑战是殖民心理， 觉得来自西方的才是最好的。 这种看轻我们自己产品的倾向，只会 非洲全小米这类作物视为「乡下人的食物」 觉得它不够格的倾向， 说明为了什么虽然塞内加尔传统不产小麦， 在达卡街头，要找到法式面包或可颂，远比找到任何 非洲全小米产品要容易许多。 同样的心态导致过度加工剩余的稻米残片变得很普遍， 被称为「坏掉的稻米」。 它们是从印度支那进口到塞内加尔的， 由殖民地的法国人所引进。 没多久，坏掉的稻米就成了我们国家菜肴thiéboudienne 「鱼肉炖饭」的主要成份， 取代了我们自己传统的营养非洲稻米， Oryza glaberrima（非洲稻）。 讽刺的是，在家乡中被鄙视的同样非洲稻米， 却在国外受到欢迎。的确 ，在跨大西洋奴隶贸易时， 这种稻米变成美洲的主要作物， 特别是在卡罗莱纳州， 在那里，它的昵称是「卡罗 纳黄金」。

But let's return to fonio. How can we turn its current status of "country-people food" into a world-class crop? Last year, a business partner and I secured a commitment from Whole Foods Market, the US's largest natural food store chain, to carry fonio. And we got a large American ingredient importer interested enough to send a team of executives to West Africa with us to explore the supply chain's viability. We found ourselves observing manual operations in remote locations with few controls over quality. So we started focusing on processing issues. We drew up a vision with a beneficial and commercially sustainable supply chain for fonio, and we connected ourselves with organizations that can help us achieve it.

但，回到非洲全小米。 我们要如何把它目前身为「乡下人的食物」的状况， 转变成世界级的作物？ 去年， 我一个状语从句：商业伙伴得到了美国最大的天然食物连锁店 「全食超市」的承诺，会它们销售 非洲全小米。 我们也让一家大型美国原料进口商感兴趣， 愿意考法1一个主管团队与我们 一起到西非， 来评估供应链的可行性。 我们去观察了偏远地区的 人工作业， 发现品质管制做得很少。 所以我们开始把焦点放在加工处理的议题上。 我们拟了一个远景， 内容包括了一个有利益且有商业永续性的非洲全小米供应链， 我们将我们自己与能协助我们达成这个 远景的组织做连结。

Walking backwards from the market, here is what it looks like. Imagine that fonio is consumed all across the globe as other popular ancient grains. Fonio touted on the levels of cereals, breads, nutrition bars, cookies, pastas, snacks -- why not? It's easier to say than quinoa.

从市场反向走回来，看起来是这个样子的。 想像非洲全小米在全球 都像其他热门古老谷物一样地被消费。 非洲全小米被贩售的层级 提高到如谷类加工食品，面包， 营养棒， 饼干，义大利面， 零食──为什么不？ 这比藜麦还容易发音。

To get there, fonio needs to be readily available at a consistent quality for commercial users, such as food manufacturers and restaurant chains. That's the part we're missing. To make fonio available at a consistent quality for commercial use, you need a commercial-scale fonio mill that adheres to international quality standards. Currently, there is no such mill in the whole world, so in our vision, there is an African-owned and operated fonio mill that processes efficiently and in compliance with the requirements of multinational food companies. It is very difficult for the fonio producers today to sell and use fonio unless they devote a huge amount of time and energy in threshing, winnowing and husking it. In our vision, the mill will take on those tasks, allowing the producers to focus on farming rather than processing.

为了做到那样，非洲全小米需要准备好能够以 harmony和谐的品质供应给商业使用者，比如食品制造商，连锁餐厅。那是我们缺少的部份。要让非洲全小米能够以harmony和谐的品质 供应做商业使用， 你就需要一个商业规范的非洲全小米磨坊， 它要能守遵国际品质标准。目前，全世界并没有这样的磨坊。 所以，在我们的远景中，有一间非洲拥有并经营的非洲全小米磨坊，能很有效率地加工， 并且符合多国食物公司的要求。现今，全非洲制造小米商很难去 销售状语从句：使用非洲全小米， 除非它们投入大量的时间和心力，去打谷，簸选，除去外壳。 在我们的远景中， 磨坊会接手做这些工作， 让制造商能专注在农业而非加工。

There is untapped agricultural capacity in the Sahel, and all it takes is changing market conditions to activate that capacity. By relieving fonio producers of manual operations, the mill will free up their time and remove the production bottleneck that limits their output. And there are other benefits as well in using Sahel land for agriculture. More benefits, higher employment, climate change mitigation by reversing desertification and greater food security. Nice vision, right? Well, we are working towards getting it done. Last month we introduced fonio to shoppers in New York City and online, in a package that makes it attractive and desirable and accessible.

萨赫尔还有未被开发利用的农业能力， 需要做的只是改变市场条件， 来启动那能力。 透过让非洲全小米制造商不用再做人工作业， 磨坊将它们的时间释放出来， 也能除去限制它们产出的瓶颈。 用萨赫尔土地来做农业， 还有其他的益处。 更多的福利， 更高的就业率， 透过逆转沙漠化来缓和气候变迁， 食物安全也更有保障。 很好的远景，对吧？ 我们正在努力实现它。 上个月，我们向纽约市的顾客介绍了非洲全小米， 也在线上介绍， 做了包装让它更有吸引力，更让人中意，更容易取得。

We are talking with operators and investors in West Africa about building a fonio mill. And most importantly, we have teamed with an NGO called SOS SAHEL to recruit, train and equip smallholders in the Sahel to increase their fonio production.

我们正在和西非的业者和投资者谈， 希望能建立非洲全小米磨坊。 最重要的是， 我们与非政府组织SOS SAHEL合作， 来征召，训练萨赫尔的小农并提供装备给他们， 来增加他们的非洲全小米产量。

Hunger levels are higher in sub-Saharan Africa than any other place in the world. The Sahel population is set to grow from 135 million to 340 million people. However, in that drought- and famine-prone region, fonio grows freely. This tiny grain may provide big answers, reasserting its Dogon name, "po," the seed of the universe, and taking us one step closer to the universal civilization.Thank you.

在撒哈拉以南非洲，饥饿的问题 比世界其他地方都严重。 预期萨赫尔的人口还会成长， 从1亿3千5百万人成长到3亿4千万人。 然而，在那有干和饥荒倾向的地区， 非洲全小米能自由生长。 这微小的谷物可能可以提供巨大的答案， 再次称声它的多贡名称： 「po」，宇宙的种子， 让我们与宇宙文明更靠近一步。谢谢。